So you’re standing at the meat counter on your way home from work. The pork chops look terrific, and they’re priced right for a family dinner — but how are you going to cook them?

A frequent comment I hear from friends is that they love pork chops in restaurants but can’t seem to get the same juicy, tender results at home. Too often, even a favorite recipe turns out tough and dry.

With today’s leaner pork, a new rule of thumb applies, but the change — shorter cooking time — is to the home cook’s advantage. There’s nothing easier to make for a snappy weeknight dinner than pork chops, and once you have the simple technique in mind, you’ll be inspired to try all sorts of variations.

Just keep in mind three quick steps: Season the meat, sear it, make a sauce as you deglaze the pan and finish the meat in the sauce.

The same technique applies whether you're making everyday chops seasoned with thyme and garlic, spicy tomato-olive-sauced chops or a dressier preparation that features a rich, cream-based sage sauce. All these sauces are quickly pulled together to take advantage of the fact that the chops will have a total cooking time of only about six to 10 minutes.

Lean pork chops should never be cooked to well done. Because they don't have generous fat and marbling, they're easily overcooked. The challenge is to turn out juicy chops with an appetizingly browned exterior and a slightly pink center.

First, select the right chops. Look for the lean, high-quality chops that are more widely available these days. Choose either medium (3/4 -inch to 1-inch) or thick (1-1/2 -inch to 2-inch) chops for recipes that call for pan-searing and finishing the chops in sauce. Thin (less than 3/4 -inch) chops will overcook before they brown. These are better simply seasoned and grilled fast on high heat.

Cooking time varies according to the cut of chop, whether it is boneless or bone-in, and the amount of fat along the outside edge. Fat takes longer to cook, so trim off excess fat. Bone-in pork chops will take a little longer then boneless chops.

If you are cooking meat you've just purchased, it should be tempered by the time you're home and ready to cook. If the meat has been refrigerated, season it and let it stand for half an hour before cooking.

To sear pork chops, heat equal amounts butter and olive oil over medium-high heat in a heavy skillet. The high heat is needed to get a good sear in a short time. The combination of butter and olive oil will help prevent the butter from burning. Cook the chops three to six minutes per side.

Don't worry if they're red in the center at this stage; they'll continue to cook after being removed to a plate and covered with foil.

Next, deglaze the pan with wine, broth or water, scraping up any nicely browned bits of meat. Add any additional sauce ingredients. Finishing the chops in the sauce means just that — a brief heating to marry the flavors of the sauce and the pork. Don't get distracted and walk away; the chops should cook for only one to eight minutes depending on thickness. Even two or three additional minutes can dry them out.

To test for doneness, make a tiny cut. If the juices run clear or very light pink, the pork chop is done. Another way to test for doneness is by touching. The surface should feel firm but not hard.

Finally, until you get a feel for the technique, you can use a thermometer. Insert it into the side of the chop not touching the bone. It should read 132 degrees to 135 degrees after browning; the temperature will rise as the covered chops stand while you prepare the sauce.

Juicy and tender, with a delicious sauce to spoon over rice or potatoes, too: Pork chops made this way are even snazzy enough for the weekend.

WEEKNIGHT PORK CHOPS

Total time: 20 minutes

Use medium (about 1-inch) or thick (about 1 1/2 -inch) chops; adjust cooking time accordingly.

• 4 medium boneless loin pork chops
• 1 garlic clove, cut in half
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons butter, divided
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 3/4 cup high-quality chicken broth
• 2 sprigs thyme
• 1 garlic clove, crushed
• 2 tablespoons chopped parsley or chervil
  

Pat any excess moisture from the surface of the chops. Rub both sides with the cut garlic. Season both sides with salt and pepper.

Heat 1 tablespoon butter and the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chops and sear 3 to 4 minutes per side until browned. Remove chops to a plate and cover with foil to keep warm.

Pour off excess fat. Add the chicken broth, stirring to scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of pan. Add the thyme and the crushed garlic. Bring the sauce to a simmer and cook until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 2 minutes. Add the chops back to the pan and cook 1 to 2 minutes to finish cooking. Remove the chops from the skillet.

Remove the garlic and thyme. Add the remaining 2 teaspoons butter, tilting the pan and swirling the butter until the sauce is slightly thickened. Spoon the sauce over the chops. Sprinkle with parsley or chervil and serve.

Makes 4 servings, each 223 calories, 17 grams protein, 1 gram carbohydrate, no fiber, 17 grams fat (7 grams saturated), 68 milligrams cholesterol and 148 milligrams sodium.

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PORK CHOPS WITH SAGE CREAM

Total time: 25 minutes

Use medium (about 1-inch) or thick (about 1 1/2 -inch) chops and adjust cooking time accordingly.

• 4 medium or thick boneless loin pork chops
• 1 garlic clove, cut in half
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 3/4 cup good-quality chicken broth
• 3/4 cup whipping cream
• 1 tablespoon minced sage
  

Pat any excess moisture from the surface of the pork chops. Rub chops with the cut garlic; season with the salt and pepper.

Heat the butter and oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Cook the chops until browned on both sides, about 3 to 4 minutes on each side. The chops should be not quite done. Remove the chops from the skillet to a plate. Cover and keep warm.

Reduce the heat to medium low. Add the minced garlic and sauté about 10 seconds. Stir in the chicken broth, scraping up browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the cream and sage; stir to blend.

Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the sauce begins to thicken slightly, about 5 to 8 minutes. Add the pork chops with any drippings back to the skillet with the sauce. Simmer 1 to 2 minutes, until the chops are firm to the touch and just pink in the center.

Makes 4 servings, each 465 calories, 29 grams protein, 2 grams carbohydrates, no fiber, 38 grams fat (18 grams saturated); 159 milligrams cholesterol and 316 milligrams sodium.

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PORK CHOPS WITH TOMATO SAUCE

Total time: 30 minutes

Use medium (about 1-inch) or thick (about 1 1/2 -inch) chops and adjust cooking time accordingly.

• 2 thick center-cut loin pork chops
• 1 garlic clove, cut in half
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt, plus more to taste
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
• 2 teaspoons butter
• 2 teaspoons olive oil
• 1 large garlic clove, minced
• 1 cup seeded diced Roma tomatoes
• 1/3 cup chicken broth
• Sprig of thyme
• 3-inch strip orange peel
• 12 small green olives
  

Pat any moisture from the surface of the pork chops. Rub both sides of each chop with cut garlic. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper.

Heat the butter and oil in a heavy 10-inch sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the chops and brown both sides, about 5 to 6 minutes on each side. During the last minute of cooking, turn the chops on end to sear the edges. Remove the chops from the skillet to a plate, cover and keep warm.

Add the minced garlic to the skillet and sauté about 10 seconds. Add the tomatoes, stirring to scrape up the browned bits in the bottom of the pan.

Stir in the chicken broth to deglaze the pan. Add the thyme, orange peel and olives. Bring to a simmer and cook 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Place the browned pork chops with any drippings back into the pan. Simmer 5 to 8 minutes, stirring the sauce occasionally, until the chops are still pink in the center.

Makes 2 servings, each 365 calories, 38 grams protein, 5 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 21 grams fat (7 grams saturated); 96 milligrams cholesterol and 755 milligrams sodium.

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PORK CHOPS WITH WINE SAUCE

Total time: 30 minutes

Use medium (about 1-inch) or thick (about 1 1/2 -inch) chops and adjust cooking time accordingly.

• 4 medium rib or loin pork chops
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1 tablespoon minced shallots
• 2 tablespoons minced carrots
• 2 tablespoons minced celery
• 1/3 cup white wine
• 3/4 cup chicken broth
• 1 tablespoon cold butter, cut up
  

Pat any moisture from the surface of the chops. Season with the salt and pepper.

Heat the oil and butter in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chops to the skillet and sear until both sides are nicely browned, about 3 to 4 minutes each side. Remove the chops from the skillet to a plate; cover and keep warm.

Reduce the heat to low. Pour out all but 1 tablespoon of fat from the skillet. Add the shallots, carrots and celery and quickly sauté for about 1 to 2 minutes. Add the wine and stir to deglaze the pan, scraping up the brown bits from the bottom.

Stir in the chicken broth. Bring the sauce to a simmer; cook until reduced by half.

Add the pork chops back into the skillet along with any drippings and simmer, spooning the juices over the chops as they cook, 1 to 2 minutes or until the chops are firm and just pink in the center. Remove the chops from the skillet.

Add the butter, tilting the pan and swirling the butter until the sauce is slightly thickened. Serve each chop with a little sauce spooned over the top.

Makes 4 servings, each 284 calories, 30 grams protein, 1 gram carbohydrate, no fiber, 16 grams fat (7 grams saturated), 84 milligrams cholesterol and 322 milligrams sodium.

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